Step 1: Isolation and Cutting
The engineer will begin by turning off the water at the main stopcock and draining the system, usually by opening the kitchen tap. Once the pipework is empty, they will carefully cut into the copper or plastic rising main pipe to create the connection point for the water softener.
Step 2: Installing the Bypass Valve
This is a crucial stage of the installation. A three-valve bypass system is fitted into the pipework, allowing you to temporarily bypass the softener if needed. This means you can switch back to untreated hard water when filling a swimming pool, watering the garden, or if the unit requires servicing—without shutting off water to the entire house.
Step 3: Connecting the Hoses
The water softener is connected to the bypass valves using high-pressure flexible hoses:
- Inlet: Hard water from the mains supply enters the softener.
- Outlet: The softened water exits the unit and flows to your household taps, boiler, washing machine, and shower.
Step 4: Waste and Overflow
Two plastic tubes are connected to the back of the softener:
- The Drain Hose: This is attached securely to your household waste pipe (often under the kitchen sink) and typically includes a non-return valve to prevent back-siphoning.
- The Overflow Hose: This pipe is routed through a small hole in the external wall so that, in the unlikely event of a malfunction, excess water drains safely outside rather than into your kitchen.
Step 5: Commissioning
Finally, the engineer will turn the mains water back on and carefully check all connections for leaks. The system is then programmed according to the specific water hardness level in your area. After adding the first bag of salt, the technician will run a test regeneration cycle to ensure the softener is operating correctly.